Frequently Asked Questions:

Here are some commonly asked questions. If your question is not listed please let me know and I would happy to answer any questions you may have.

Recommended Bunny Supplies:

1.  A Hutch- Critter nation 2 level metal hutch is what i currently use  ( the wood hutches are often cheap and do not last long


A EXTRA LARGE rabbit cage to get you started as the baby bunny is still being trained,  but should only be used as a litter box when the bunny reaches 6 months of age.

2. A play yard or fenced area for exercise time.  Some bunnies do jump, so I have used a fitted sheet over the play area to prevent escape artists. 

3. Water bottle or bowls. There are so many different types. I use a variety for my bunnies. I like large ceramic bowls so that the bunny can not move the bowl. Or bowls that attach to the fencing of the hutch. I also like small anti gravity bowls that are used for cats. I am not a fan of bottles as they tend to leak and can possibly leave a bunny dehydrated. 

4. Hay and Pellets- We currently use timothy hay orchard grass hay  that we get in bulk at Shoppers supply in Chandler. We store the hay bale in a very large tote bin. We currently use a bunny pellet called Kruse perfection and purchase it at shoppers as well.  Rabbit safe veggies and fruits can be given as treats.  Here is a link to some great information regarding how much you should feed your bunny. 


5. Litter box- we like large  litter boxes for when the bunny gets bigger, but will include a small litter box to get you started with some litter box supplies. We use 2 items for our litter box.  Pine pellets that are heat treated. Then we sprinkle some hay on top and put a good handful or 2 of hay in one corner. Bunnies tend to poop/ pee where they eat. We get all of these supplies from Shoppers Supply in Chandler.  We also now use a litter box that has a mesh screen to help keep the bunnies cleaner and make it easy to dump out the hay and poop and reuse for a few days before cleaning out completely. 

6. Toys & Other supplies: We like testing out different toys and beds and have found that the bunnies like chewing on rabbit safe woods,  timothy grass huts and mats, Toilet paper with hay in it, Little toddler stacking cups, plastic baby keys, cardboard, or cardboard boxes (you can get from costco for free just be careful and only get boxes that food was in and not chemicals as the chemicals can leach into the box) and all natural chewing toys. We refrain from toys that have chemical dyes in them. Also be careful of beds that have to much stuffing as they can accidentally be ingested which can be fatal. We like small cat beds from petco. They are $10.            

Feel free to check out lots of YOUTUBE videos for other helpful advice. We suggest following Lennon the bunny. 


Q. How much do you charge for your Holland lops? A.  I currently charge $200-300 for Pet Quality. These bunnies are not pedigreed (papered) and are not showable. Some of our parents do have pedigrees and if you want to see them prior to purchasing we would be happy to show you. 

We only sell healthy, friendly and well socialized bunnies.  They are used to loud noises, children, and small dogs. Not all bunnies LOVE to be held because they are  prey species, but most of our bunnies will tolerate it. We allow you to meet your bun prior to purchasing. During the meet-and-greet we will answer any questions, teach you how to pet and handle your bunny, and allow you to pet, and feed the bunnies some treats. We highly recommend meeting your bunny prior to purchasing! 

**Our bunnies may be more expensive than most breeders, but they are well worth the cost, as we take pride in making sure each and everyone loves their bunny that they receive from us.  We are available to answer any questions, before or after you purchase a bun,  provide tips and tricks on our Instagram, and provide our buns plenty of high quality food, treats, herbs, pet beds, litter boxes, etc. before they go home to their new family! We also work on potty training our buns before they go to their new homes. This takes time, money, and our energy and with that the cost of our bunnies tend to be higher than other breeders. We also do not sell our bunnies any younger than 8 weeks as this is state law and safest for the bunnies health   **

 Vienna Marked BlueEyed  and White Ear buns range from $300-$500

(These buns are still not showable)

**Prices can vary due to color, eye color, personality,  body and head shape, and age of the bunny. **

- Our bunnies are loved and held by myself and kiddos daily

- We keep our rabbitry very clean and sanitary

- We grow organic produce for our bunnies in our edible garden

- We spoil our bunnies with treats, toys, and comfy beds. They are treated as pets until they go home. So they are spoiled rotten. 

- We make sure our bunnies are happy and healthy before they go to their new home. 

- We are happy to answer any questions 

- We allow you to meet our bunnies so you can determine which bunny would be the best fit for your household

- We document our bunnies so you can watch your bunny grow before it goes home

Q. Are your bunnies litter box trained?

A. We do work on litter box training our bunnies, however they will not be fully litter box trained until they are a little bit older and neutered/spayed. Recent feedback suggest our bunnies are almost potty trained, with a few accidents (mainly poop pebbles) here or there when they get to their new homes. 

Q. At what age do you recommend getting a bunny neutered/ spayed?

A. 4-6 months of age and we take our bunnies to Avian Exotic in Mesa. You will be required to make a "well" appointment first before the surgery. Depending on where you go a neuter or spay can cost anywhere from $100-600+

Q. Should I get my bunny neutered or spayed and how much does it typically cost?

A.  We highly recommend getting your bunny spayed or neutered if you do not plan on breeding him/her. Male bunnies can start to spray like a cat to mark their territory. Female rabbits can get more aggressive with hormones. If you have 2 males they may start fighting to the death. If you are thinking about purchasing 2 bunnies. We highly recommend getting a male first, waiting until he can be neutered at 6 months of age, then get a female companion that is a baby. Or getting 2 litter mates that are females. They will bond better this way. Getting your bunny spayed or neutered can cost anywhere from $100-$600 or more. Typically you will wait until your bunny is 4-6 months or age before getting them spayed or neutered as surgery is riskier for a younger rabbit. ** Keep note that some bunnies will never bond even after getting neutered/spayed**

Q. What do you feed your bunnies?

A. We feed our bunnies a variety of foods including:

- Alfalfa Hay,  Timothy Hay, and Orchard Grass (fresh, pellets and cubes)

*Note: Alfalfa hay is for our nursing mothers and their babies under 1 year of age. It is higher and calcium and should be more of a treat as the bunny ages. 

- Veggies & Fruits: Dark Leafy Greens, Chard, Parsley, Cilantro, Carrots, Grapes, Strawberries, Blueberries, Mulberries, Apples, Pears, Banana,  etc. 

- Safe plants from around the garden and weeds

Q. How long does a bunny live for?

A. Bunnies can live for 7-12 years. 

Q. Should I give my bunny a bath?

A. It is recommended to AVOID baths if possible. But if for some reason you must give your bunny a bath make sure that you avoid getting water in their ears, eye, and nose. Also make sure you do not use hot water. Avoid shampoos and soaps that are not safe for bunnies. I do believe they have a dry shampoo, but using a wet towel is probably best over a full bath. If you do give your bunny a full bath make sure they are completely dry before putting them back in their cage. Use a hair dryer on the cool/ warm setting but never hot! Bunnies can die from bathing them so please do so at your own risk.          

Q. Do you have Pedigreed Holland Lops?

A. We currently have pedigreed lops but they are NOT SHOWABLE. We work with non-showable colors currently. 

Q. Do you take rescues and rehome?

A. We currently will only accept our bunnies that we have previously sold back into our rabbitry and rehome. This is by a case by case basis and subject to change. I also require a health report from a veterinarian, so I know the bunny is not sick. I do not accept any other rescues at this time.

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